Gentrification isn’t necessarily a bad thing when done right. Putting a new spin on the old is Prince Theatre Heritage Stay on Charoen Krung.
A two-minute walk from BTS Saphan Taksin, the hostel/hotel in Bang Rak opened 1912 as The Royal Casino. However, due to much debauchery, it was shut down and reopened as Prince Rama in 1917. Screening classic silent black and white movies, the cinema quickly became the heart and soul of the neighbourhood. From 1957, with the addition of sound to movies, the cinema became popular with people from all over Bangkok, when it screened Hollywood, Hong Kong and Thai films.
Its popularity waned with the advent of multiplexes and like most independent cinemas in Bangkok, Prince Rama turned to screen adult movies in 1985 to keep the lights on. However, in 2018 with the introduction of new management, the former casino-turned-cinema-turned-porn cinema was refurbed and turned into what it is today.
Keeping most of the original architecture intact, Prince Theatre Heritage Stay is now home to a hostel, which also has private suites. Though as soon as you enter and check in at the ticket counter, you are greeted with a huge stage with a white screen, where movies are shown daily in the evenings. The lobby is huge and complete with movie director-style chairs and tables and a Box Office Bar.
While the dorms here are divided into male, female, mixed and family, each dorm room has a shared bathroom and each cubicle is separated by a curtain. Capsule hotel, anyone? There are lockers in the room but bring a padlock. The only minus may be that just the bathroom has a window and if you’re claustrophobic, these dorms aren’t for you. Though one can book the entire dorm for extra privacy.
Fear not. Prince Theatre Heritage Stay also has suites and I checked into the Master Suite. With a bird’s eye view of the stage from the suite, it is extremely spacious and the classic Thai-style eaves, teak beams and windows do remind you that you’re in a property that is 112 years old! Though the two “royal” suites come with modern-day comforts. No outhouses here as the bathroom is en-suite!
The common space is huge, though it does have a private co-working space. The theatre-style setting of the lobby, complete with an antique movie camera is inviting and cool because of the high ceilings. The Box Office Bar also doubles up as a cafe and an iced coffee is great after a day of exploration.
Though there isn’t a full kitchen, the bar serves up snacks and sandwiches. This isn’t necessarily a minus considering the neighbourhood is a food lover’s paradise. Back to the sandwiches. The bar does serve the best cheese toastie in town — the Extra cheesy grilled cheese! Bold statement, I know but credit must be give to using actual grated Cheddar and mozzarella, and not sliced, processed cheese. The variation of this absolutely banging cheese toastie is a Kimchi cheese toastie. I would pair this with the Cheesy japaleno poppers to keep in theme. Each cheese sarnie (pun intended) comes with an American pickle.
Breakfast is served all day, just the way I like it. The best thing to order is the Breakfast sandwich, which uses sourdough, American cheese, streaky bacon and a choice of either scrambled or poached egg. Other choices include Avocado toast, Eggs Benedict, Granola yoghurt and Banana pancakes.
Insider’s tip: Prince Theatre Heritage Stay gets their breakfast bread from Sarnies and other bread from the famous Chinese bakery, Pan Lee.
The bar also has a pasta menu at super affordable prices. It also offers “Cafe Boran” served in the traditional style. Expect Coddled egg, strips of toast and condensed milk custard, which comes in a Thai tea version, Coffee version and a Milo version. These can be paired with Southeast Asian spreads like Pandan custard, Thai tea custard, Chilli paste and pulled chicken, Sugar and condensed milk, Plain condensed milk or Strawberry jam on toast.
As mentioned, movies are screened daily and the week’s movie schedule is made available for you to choose a night. The best part of this free movie screening is that the popcorn is also supplied free of charge. The bar serves classic cocktails and signature mocktails, mixers and highballs, draft Thai lager beer or draft beer by the can to accompany the popcorn and movie. The best thing about the movie screenings is that it is open and free for non-guests, too. A true cinematic treat!
During the day, the space is also used for exhibitions and performances by local artists, Ted Talks and other events, private and public.
This is gentrification done right — where the refurbishment of Prince Theatre Heritage Stay has held on to the century-old teak beams, original art deco screening room and vintage stained glass windows. Not to mention, its cheeky theatrical spirit. Visit the website.
